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Old 11-06-2009, 07:18 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Ahaha!

If you only knew about my bravery! That's why it took us FIVE hours to install. I was chicken shit all the way through the surgery.

But better safe than sorry.

Throughout the delicate operation my buddy and I were making jokes about the kind of excuses I could say to my dealer about having "clumsily dropped my exact-O knife in the open hood while I was trimming my garage ceiling foam insulation" to explain all the cut wires if things went bad.

Or blaming squirrels. Roaches. Bad manicure. It went on for hours.

One thing I've been thinking about…

Since we get to keep our original ECU… could we install both in the car and swap it from time to time?

One could always argue that he uses the MS1 ECU only on the track and use the other one for normal commuting… ?

Or is switching cores not practical because of relearning?
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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IDK 100% but from what ive been told, you can swap the original computer back in and do some fancy pedal/key work to recalibrate it, and it will be back to normal/staged again.

^this is 1 reason i decided to go for it^
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Performance:
MS1, AGP CAI, Weight reduction

Visual:
Debadged, blacked out lights, SRT-4 lettering, 20% tint

Future:
Shift light (installed soon- thank you josh/mouser)
Rims/tires, Lower car, full exhaust, front lip
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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nice write up, cant wait for my to come in.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:00 PM   #24 (permalink)
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WOT Box update

I thought I'd make an update on my WOT Box install and usage. I've been asked to comment on it's usage.

A bit of caution

I had previously mentioned something about Launch Control using the WOT Box, a feature that is not available to the CSRT4 (it throws a cell).

When I got mine through a group buy, they made sure they ordered the proper version of the WOT Box from the manufacturer. If you buy direct of through some other source, DO specify this is for a CSRT4. otherwise, accidental 2-step launch using the WOT Box will cause your car to throw a cell and go into limp mode.

This is not an issue if you got the right WOT Box.

Weather Proofing

I had mentioned I had weather-proofed the box by using some 3M automotive double-sided foam trim tape. Also, this same tape was used to fix the WOT Box on my air box.

While the original idea was good, the use of some silicone cleaner on the air box caused the tape not to be able to stick very much. I had also wired the review to the manufacturer for curiosity. They were happy of the good build but cautioned that their box is not water-tight.

As a reminder, if you decide like me to put the box in the engine compartment, make sure you weatherproof the WOT Box as I did (or using other sealants). The manufacturer does recommend to install it in the cabin.

You can run the wires through the door and fender. It's easier than through the firewall.

For myself, not having cut the wires to length, I might have relocated it inside but I can't stand blue LEDs and am quite happy to have it inside the engine. It's more of a sleeper car this way.

So, I've re-opened up the WOT Box and applied a half-width trim of 3M foam tape inside the casing. you can see in the photo, through the translucent casing, the foam tape sealing the box when screwed back to a shut.

Also, I've run 3 thin line of foam tapes under the box to let water seep out from under. On that photo above, we can see a tape line on the right and vaguely see the center one.

Given the tape didn't stick well to the armorall-ed air box, I've decided to bolt it on. Those are small galvanized bolts, not screws. There's plenty room in the air box for the nuts, and I used blue LocTite to make sure vibration wouldn't make the WOT Box come loose. Got to love LocTite.

Unseen in the photos: I taped-sealed shut the serial connector on the box. I don't use it for now and this will suffice until I find a rubber cap for these connectors (they exist).

Normal driving with the WOT box

Driving around with the WOT Box for normal commuting is a no-brainer. Mostly. The car just runs and acts normal. If you're careful, no one would suspect it's installed.

I emphasize on careful but that really depends on how you drive. I had a tendency to run the engine high and smoothly shift gears, when I didn't really had the intention to power shift or doing anything of the sort.

Ask my sister who rode with me the next day :-/

If you ever wanted to know how it would feel to have your head driven off the headrest with a two by four log, this is it.

Because the WOT box detects a WOT and Clutch signal, it assumes you're power-shifting and rev-limits the engine during your transition, for the short time the engine is still in WOT as you throttle down.

So, once you've had a couple of jolts like that, you learn not to do it again.

Power shifting with the WOT box

Once you get the hang of it (takes only a few times to really get used it it), power shifting is a real blast.

The best way to describe it is that my engine went from

WROH-pshh-WROH-pshh-WROH-pshh

to

WROH-wroh-WROH-wroh-WROH-wroh-pshh



Throughout gear shifts, the throttle is way more responsive. No more shift turbo lags, exceedingly smooth shifting.

The worse thing is trying to loose the throttle back-off reflex you normally do while shifting. It's a bit of a conscious effort.

So, with this installed, I decided to work on my launching technique. I've already asked the pros on how they do this, with ESP full off (2009 model only), and I have managed to better my time from 6.1 to 5.9.

At this point, there's no reason I shouldn't be able to reach 5.4-ish, but weather is a bit cold for that these days.



My rating: a solid 10 out of 10 for this very cool gadget.
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Silver CSRT4 '09, Eagle F1, MS1, PTP Inlet & WGA, MPx STB, WOT Box, RRM Pulley, BWoody Check Valve & Front Mount, 5.9s; Details

Last edited by mouser : 11-17-2009 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:07 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouser View Post
WOT Box update

I thought I'd make an update on my WOT Box install and usage. I've been asked to comment on it's usage.

A bit of caution

I had previously mentioned something about Launch Control using the WOT Box, a feature that is not available to the CSRT4 (it throws a cell).

When I got mine through a group buy, they made sure they ordered the proper version of the WOT Box from the manufacturer. If you buy direct of through some other source, DO specify this is for a CSRT4. otherwise, accidental 2-step launch using the WOT Box will cause your car to throw a cell and go into limp mode.

This is not an issue if you got the right WOT Box.

Weather Proofing

I had mentioned I had weather-proofed the box by using some 3M automotive double-sided foam trim tape. Also, this same tape was used to fix the WOT Box on my air box.

While the original idea was good, the use of some silicone cleaner on the air box caused the tape not to be able to stick very much. I had also wired the review to the manufacturer for curiosity. They were happy of the good build but cautioned that their box is not water-tight.

As a reminder, if you decide like me to put the box in the engine compartment, make sure you weatherproof the WOT Box as I did (or using other sealants). The manufacturer does recommend to install it in the cabin.

You can run the wires through the door and fender. It's easier than through the firewall.

For myself, not having cut the wires to length, I might have relocated it inside but I can't stand blue LEDs and am quite happy to have it inside the engine. It's more of a sleeper car this way.

So, I've re-opened up the WOT Box and applied a half-width trim of 3M foam tape inside the casing. you can see in the photo, through the translucent casing, the foam tape sealing the box when screwed back to a shut.

Also, I've run 3 thin line of foam tapes under the box to let water seep out from under. On that photo above, we can see a tape line on the right and vaguely see the center one.

Given the tape didn't stick well to the armorall-ed air box, I've decided to bolt it on. Those are small galvanized bolts, not screws. There's plenty room in the air box for the nuts, and I used blue LocTite to make sure vibration wouldn't make the WOT Box come loose. Got to love LocTite.

Unseen in the photos: I taped-sealed shut the serial connector on the box. I don't use it for now and this will suffice until I find a rubber cap for these connectors (they exist).

Normal driving with the WOT box

Driving around with the WOT Box for normal commuting is a no-brainer. Mostly. The car just runs and acts normal. If you're careful, no one would suspect it's installed.

I emphasize on careful but that really depends on how you drive. I had a tendency to run the engine high and smoothly shift gears, when I didn't really had the intention to power shift or doing anything of the sort.

Ask my sister who rode with me the next day :-/

If you ever wanted to know how it would feel to have your head driven off the headrest with a two by four log, this is it.

Because the WOT box detects a WOT and Clutch signal, it assumes you're power-shifting and rev-limits the engine during your transition, for the short time the engine is still in WOT as you throttle down.

So, once you've had a couple of jolts like that, you learn not to do it again.

Power shifting with the WOT box

Once you get the hang of it (takes only a few times to really get used it it), power shifting is a real blast.

The best way to describe it is that my engine went from

WROH-pshh-WROH-pshh-WROH-pshh

to

WROH-wroh-WROH-wroh-WROH-wroh-pshh



Throughout gear shifts, the throttle is way more responsive. No more shift turbo lags, exceedingly smooth shifting.

The worse thing is trying to loose the throttle back-off reflex you normally do while shifting. It's a bit of a conscious effort.

So, with this installed, I decided to work on my launching technique. I've already asked the pros on how they do this, with ESP full off (2009 model only), and I have managed to better my time from 6.1 to 5.9.

At this point, there's no reason I shouldn't be able to reach 5.4-ish, but weather is a bit cold for that these days.



My rating: a solid 10 out of 10 for this very cool gadget.
how do u get it to tell u ur best?? mine resets n dont know how to review the best times.
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08 CSRT4
Mopar:S1
Realtuned:Stage 3 SBC,PG LSD,575cc injectors,Map/Tip Clamp 2.9v,Aeroforce Scangauge,AEM Wideband
MPx:Catted Dp,Crank Pulley,Strut Brace,Dual Gauge Pod,NGK Iridium IX,K&N Filter
AGP:FMIC,Wastegate,Solid Front Mount
E.D:SRI
PTP:50% STS
BWoody:Traction Bars,Check Valve
NW:HKS SSQV W/ Silver Up pipe
Carbon By Design:Hood
Extras:Glow Shift Boost Gauge,Solenoid Delete,Custom Dual Center Exhaust,Optima Red Top,Eibach Springs
WHP: 306.85/338.45 WTQ 9FEB10
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:11 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrider54 View Post
how do u get it to tell u ur best?? mine resets n dont know how to review the best times.
As per the user manual:

Quote:
NOTE: If any of the Performance Page screens are active, the Trip button will not affect the odometer. The trip button will toggle to a vehicle best screen if applicable.
...
To clear the current and vehicle best time and distance, hold the trip button, then press and release the EVIC button.
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:56 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouser View Post
As per the user manual:
learn something new everyday.

Hope it works on the 08's too.

I cant imagine ever hooking up shifting from 1-2 WOT with the stage 1, even w/o the WOT box you can make it spin through the entire gear if you shift 'right'.

3rd with the stage 1 seems were the WOT box would really come in handy.

lol i need new tires already.
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Performance:
MS1, AGP CAI, Weight reduction

Visual:
Debadged, blacked out lights, SRT-4 lettering, 20% tint

Future:
Shift light (installed soon- thank you josh/mouser)
Rims/tires, Lower car, full exhaust, front lip

Last edited by Dan08srt4 : 11-18-2009 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:04 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan08srt4 View Post
learn something new everyday.

Hope it works on the 08's too.

I cant imagine ever hooking up shifting from 1-2 WOT with the stage 1, even w/o the WOT box you can make it spin through the entire gear if you shift right.

3rd with the stage 1 seems were the WOT box would really come in handy.

lol i need new tires already.
I noticed, actually, that tires keep their grip better from 1 to 2 with WOT box shifting. That's because the return to load from engine to transmission is not as brutal as normal shifting.

This thing really makes shifting smoother if you do it right.
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:26 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouser View Post
I noticed, actually, that tires keep their grip better from 1 to 2 with WOT box shifting. That's because the return to load from engine to transmission is not as brutal as normal shifting.

This thing really makes shifting smoother if you do it right.
i dont understand what you mean about it being "better" for the transmission, because your dropping the clutch... harder now.

BUT i think i know what you mean... sometimes when you shift you get that real bad sudden slowdown and then fat power, sometimes its smooth...

or do you mean like when you let up the clutch at not high enough rpm (moving) and the transmission 'revs' the motor?
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Performance:
MS1, AGP CAI, Weight reduction

Visual:
Debadged, blacked out lights, SRT-4 lettering, 20% tint

Future:
Shift light (installed soon- thank you josh/mouser)
Rims/tires, Lower car, full exhaust, front lip
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan08srt4 View Post
i dont understand what you mean about it being "better" for the transmission, because your dropping the clutch... harder now.
You answered your own question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan08srt4 View Post
BUT i think i know what you mean... sometimes when you shift you get that real bad sudden slowdown and then fat power, sometimes its smooth...

or do you mean like when you let up the clutch at not high enough rpm (moving) and the transmission 'revs' the motor?
The WOT Box keeps the engine running at 4000-ish RPM (configurable) when when you clutch. Your engine will NEVER max out and when you re-engage, you'll never overpower the transmission.

It really makes for smooth transitions between gears. Even the car cabin doesn't jolt in-between shifts

Well, at least in the 1-2-3-4 range. I never really maxed out the car with that.

So, because the transition is smoother, both the engine and clutch/transmission don't suffer a severe trauma.
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