caliber172

I have read various opinions for how to properly break in a new car. Many say take it easy, others say drive it hard, WOT. I read a page from someone telling about how to break in a motor cycle. He explained that the rings need to seat for optimal compression and thus power. I mentioned this to an ASE certified mechanic who formally told me to baby it, and he said the article is correct, BUT it is extremely important to make sure the engine is fully warm before getting on it, but after it is warm use short bursts of WOT.



With the CVT-2 telling the engine to redline when you apply some pressure to the gas peddle, I assume most caliber drivers are getting WOT new engine break-ins without realizing it. I also assume Dodge realizes this as well.



Any ideas, suggestions, recommendations?



What is everyone else doing to break in their engine?

bigtsr

The CVT does not determine that the engine goes to redline-you do.
On those Calibers built before NOV 06 there is a detent at the end
of normal gas pedal travel,put it there and you'll see 6000+ rpm
however drive NORMALLY and even under good acceleration
it will stay in the 3000-4000 rpm range.
As for breakin,baby if you want but when start driving in your
NORMAL everyday style the results may be disappointing,
drive as you would if it had been you daily driver for a year
(unless your a frustrated street racer) and breakin will be
fine.
A lot of "mechanics" are old school and have not kept up
with modern engine building practiceses,they just fix them
according to the flat rate or how to book from manufacter
of the car,most "mechanics" own car are pieces of junk.
Until I retired I was tech rep for large multinational mfr,
I drove my own vehicles for 34 yrs and averaged 40,000
kilometers a yr,broke everyone in the same way somedays gently
other days drove it like I stole it.
I always had cars that met or exceeded EPA estimates and
never had an engine or tranny failure.
So in a nut shell there you have it,you pays your money and
takes your chances.
Oh by the way JATCO is owned by NISSAN who in turn is
owned by RENAULT.
Good luck and Happy New Year.

__________________
Black SXT 2.0L-CVT-Cruise-Security-Tint-Sill plates-
Shorty antenna-Bumper protection-Exhaust mod-
Upholstered front headrests-Painted engine cover
Ordered April 15/06-Delivered August 18/06

caliber172

The guy I talked to is about 25 years old and owns a highly modified 2000 Ford Mustang. He recently graduated and is young, that is why I asked him.

Are you saying that they stopped putting in the bump on the gas peddle after November for WOT?

bigtsr

Well I guess if I wanted to be a smartass I would wonder what highly
modified means,bolting pieces on to an engine modifies it but doesn't
take a genius.
Yes according to DCX the detent at the end of gas pedal travel
was to be eliminated from Nov 06 production on.

__________________
Black SXT 2.0L-CVT-Cruise-Security-Tint-Sill plates-
Shorty antenna-Bumper protection-Exhaust mod-
Upholstered front headrests-Painted engine cover
Ordered April 15/06-Delivered August 18/06

caliber172

That is interesting, from what I have read typical driving without hitting that bump gives you 2000-4000 RPM, but when you push down hard enough to engage the switch it then goes ahead and allows it to almost red line. This design must have been to try to keep it to save gas for most people, but for others who want max power, they can stomp it and get max power.

How does it work now? More like other cars, the more you push it the higher the RPM? I know that was a crude way of askign, but any ideas?

bigtsr

No I don't have any idea how it works now when you floor it as I
have not driven any other then my June built SXT.
Hopefully someone who has experienced can clue us both in about it.

__________________
Black SXT 2.0L-CVT-Cruise-Security-Tint-Sill plates-
Shorty antenna-Bumper protection-Exhaust mod-
Upholstered front headrests-Painted engine cover
Ordered April 15/06-Delivered August 18/06

caliber172

I found the following on the web, any comments, corrections?

I have operated a mechanic shop for 30+ years and have rebuilt
numerous Nissan engines as well as engines on other vehicles. I have
extensive information about manual transmissions and clutches on my
site

In answer to your question: Yes, proper break-in is VERY critical to
making your engine last as long as it should. When an engine is brand
new (or freshly rebuilt) the cylnder walls and piston rings have not
yet "worn in" to fit each other.

Before you assemble an engine you hone the cylinders to create a
"crosshatch" pattern. These fine "scratches" in the cylinder wall
hold oil while and providing a slightly abrasive surface against the
piston rings. The piston rings when new have a dull (slightly rough)
finish to them.

As the motor "breaks in" the slightly rough piston rings and the
slightly rough cylinder walls polish each other to provide a tight
seal on the combustion chamber. If this polishing is not accomplished
properly, you will have excessive blowby gasses from your motor

There are other things that have to "break in" on a new motor, most
notably the valves have to "seat in", but these are not nearly as
critical as the piston ring break-in.


When I build a motor, I follow this strategy:

First, I get it running. I will run it at aboiut 2000 to 2500 RPM for
about 10 to 15 minutes. After that I shut it off and check the oil
and coolant levels one more time.

This step has already been done at the factory on a new car.

The next step is a road test. The worst thing you can do to a new
motor is let it just sit still and idle. The cylinder walls (piston
rings) rely on oil slinging off the crankshaft to lubricate them, so
you want a lot of oil slinging around in there. At idle very ilittle
oil is being sprayed around inside the crankcase.

The second worst thing you could do is to "lug" or "dog" the motor: in
other words put it under so much of a load that it jumps and jerks or
goes below 700 RPM or so.

The third worst thing would be to "hot rod" the motor: going very fast
and doing hard acceleration with it.

The best way to break in a motor is to drive it gently, but under
various conditions. I try to get out on a highway, and go 45 MPH for
awhile, then 55, back to 45, then up to 65, gently accelerating
between those speeds. Speed isn't as important as RPM: Keep the RPM
under 3000-3500 AT ALL TIMES!!!

daytonakid

you do have to take the rpms higher than that. higher trim cars such as stis, evo mr's, or other cars that are more costly are usually broken in before you buy them. I know for a fact that they take them to the track, take it easy on them for about 15 mins , then redline it to expand the piston rings. Every one is going to have a diff. opinion, but im just telling you what car companies do to thier "performance" cars.

GooberMT

what i did in our caliber, is get on it hard in L gear (automatic) and then let the car deaccelerate, get on it again, and then deaccelerate, rinse and repeat. this will properly apply pressure to your rings correctly.

Do this for about 300 miles, If you can do it that much, change your oil to say 5w20, something light. then do it again for another 300 miles, and then change to whatever motor oil you want to run. I chose mobil 1, just cause i use them for my neon srt4.

car runs like a champ.

Gabriel

__________________

Purchase the 2009 Dodge Caliber/CSRT4 Calender Here!