i believe im the first - Page 2 - Dodge Caliber SRT-4 Forums

iluvhootersu · 06-30-2009, 07:18 PM

John is right I was pushing 20psi on stock ecm and I think when I got into the fender bender like in nov gerber collision fucked up because there was a lot of little shit the never replaced but "said" they did like the intake manifold never was replaced. And the top end was "replaced" which could be bullshit so idk I get a new block so

iluvhootersu · 06-30-2009, 08:52 PM

tomorrow if they let us have crew rest from this misrable 7 day 16-17 hr days detail i will go and take pics and have them uploaded for u guys

Anonymous · 07-01-2009, 12:02 AM

Thanks, keep us posted on this. I need be I can swing up there and take some pictures as well.

iluvhootersu · 07-01-2009, 12:01 PM

heres the picks
i should have took picls of the gasket and manifold it was #2 cylnder cracked and if u look at #3 cylinder it looks like it has a hailine in that border with #2 but anyways...i should have took pic of the exhaust manifold number 3 port was bad coolant all in that bitch...dont trust collision places

kingpiccoloz · 07-01-2009, 12:08 PM

bummer, but on a side note i like that flat black hood.

rayjj · 07-01-2009, 12:41 PM

How many miles were on the engine? Pistons look nice and clean still!

GreaseMonkey · 07-01-2009, 01:16 PM

Ah, you just cracked a cylinder wall. Not saying that's any better. lol

When you said cracked block I thought the whole block itself.

DISSST · 07-01-2009, 04:08 PM

from the pics i cant tell for sure (little blurry) but it looks like it was starting to melt the edge of the piston , sure looks like it leaned out , they normally run like there being raped just before they let go . Just my .02 .

if the air fuel was in fact staying around 10 i dont beleive it would have happened at some point it leaned out

here's a little read on AFR

What is the optimum air-fuel ratio to run for best power?

I've heard racers say that we need to run a bit lean for best power - is this true?

Maybe. It's somewhat true that running a tad bit richer will help quench detonation (knock), but only to a certain extent. The stochiometric AF ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1. Stochiometric means that at this point, the fuel is completely burned with no unburned hydrocarbons left, giving you best emissions. This is the AF ratio the PCM is shooting for under idle and cruise.

However, best power is achieved for gasoline at around 12.5:1, leaving excess unburned hydrocarbons, but no unused oxygen molecules! (This is why 12.5:1 is typically the best power point.) So under ideal circumstances, the best power AF ratio to shoot for is around 12:1 to 12.5:1. However, running a tad bit richer will throw excess fuel (gasoline) into the combustion chamber, and the extra unburnt fuel actually acts as a heat sink, absorbing heat and cooling the combustion temperature, hence reducing the tendency for detonation to develop. However, this only helps to a certain extent. If you're knocking severely, you can throw all the raw fuel you want into the mix and it won't quench the detonation.

When you run richer than 12:1 on gasoline, you're losing power. Between 11:1 and 12:1, the power curve is fairly flat and you're not losing very much power, much richer than about 10.5:1 and you're starting to lose power drastically, and probably not helping your detonation problem either.

So the answer is to achieve around 11:1 AF ratio for your best compromise, not going richer than about 10.5:1 at most. You won't be inherently down very much on power due to the AF ratio, but you're probably delaying the onset of detonation enough so that your spark advance isn't being severely retarded, thus helping your power - end result, you get the optimum power / knock control balance.

When racers speak of running on the "rich" side they're really referring to running around 10.5:1 area, whereas when they speak of running on the "lean" side, they're really referring to the 12.5:1 area, whether they know it or not. They're not actually running "lean" (which would be something greater than 14.7:1), they're just running on the "lean" side of best power.

iluvhootersu · 07-01-2009, 09:08 PM

the car only has 15200mi
there was a time i was running like 18 to19 b ut i changed it as soon as i pulled over

iluvhootersu · 07-01-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

Ah, you just cracked a cylinder wall. Not saying that's any better. lol

When you said cracked block I thought the whole block itself.

it might as well have been the block they still replace the block

06-30-2009, 07:18 PM	#11 (permalink)
iluvhootersu SRT driver Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: parkland, wa Posts: 311	:) but when i Iblew the head gsket ai Iwas running 10s and then like 4500-5000in it John is right I was pushing 20psi on stock ecm and I think when I got into the fender bender like in nov gerber collision fucked up because there was a lot of little shit the never replaced but "said" they did like the intake manifold never was replaced. And the top end was "replaced" which could be bullshit so idk I get a new block so __________________ -bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi

06-30-2009, 08:52 PM	#12 (permalink)
iluvhootersu SRT driver Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: parkland, wa Posts: 311	tomorrow if they let us have crew rest from this misrable 7 day 16-17 hr days detail i will go and take pics and have them uploaded for u guys __________________ -bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi

07-01-2009, 12:01 PM	#14 (permalink)
iluvhootersu SRT driver Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: parkland, wa Posts: 311	heres the picks i should have took picls of the gasket and manifold it was #2 cylnder cracked and if u look at #3 cylinder it looks like it has a hailine in that border with #2 but anyways...i should have took pic of the exhaust manifold number 3 port was bad coolant all in that bitch...dont trust collision places __________________ -bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi Last edited by iluvhootersu : 09-10-2009 at 12:06 PM.

07-01-2009, 12:08 PM	#15 (permalink)
kingpiccoloz Autobot Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 511	bummer, but on a side note i like that flat black hood. __________________ '08 Black cSRT4 Dynoed 301 whp - 299 tq (need a new dyno run with new mods) Too many mods to list.

07-01-2009, 12:41 PM	#16 (permalink)
rayjj "Trool" mod Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 2,781	How many miles were on the engine? Pistons look nice and clean still! __________________ Stage 1..MPx catted downpipe..MPx dual out muffler..MPx FMIC..S1 injectors...AEM intake..AEM UEGO..AEM Digital boost gauge...Scangauge..AGP WG...AGP front mount..AGP Catch Can..BWoody Check Valve..Forge BOV...Custom hitch...309.5HP..14.1 @ 98 - a work in progress __________________________________

07-01-2009, 12:02 AM	#13 (permalink)
Anonymous Banned Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 666	Thanks, keep us posted on this. I need be I can swing up there and take some pictures as well.

07-01-2009, 01:16 PM	#17 (permalink)
GreaseMonkey Huge Tool Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Posts: 3,996	Ah, you just cracked a cylinder wall. Not saying that's any better. lol When you said cracked block I thought the whole block itself. __________________ '08 Caliber SRT4

07-01-2009, 04:08 PM	#18 (permalink)
DISSST Team Disst Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sanger , Texas Posts: 1,176	from the pics i cant tell for sure (little blurry) but it looks like it was starting to melt the edge of the piston , sure looks like it leaned out , they normally run like there being raped just before they let go . Just my .02 . if the air fuel was in fact staying around 10 i dont beleive it would have happened at some point it leaned out here's a little read on AFR What is the optimum air-fuel ratio to run for best power? I've heard racers say that we need to run a bit lean for best power - is this true? Maybe. It's somewhat true that running a tad bit richer will help quench detonation (knock), but only to a certain extent. The stochiometric AF ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1. Stochiometric means that at this point, the fuel is completely burned with no unburned hydrocarbons left, giving you best emissions. This is the AF ratio the PCM is shooting for under idle and cruise. However, best power is achieved for gasoline at around 12.5:1, leaving excess unburned hydrocarbons, but no unused oxygen molecules! (This is why 12.5:1 is typically the best power point.) So under ideal circumstances, the best power AF ratio to shoot for is around 12:1 to 12.5:1. However, running a tad bit richer will throw excess fuel (gasoline) into the combustion chamber, and the extra unburnt fuel actually acts as a heat sink, absorbing heat and cooling the combustion temperature, hence reducing the tendency for detonation to develop. However, this only helps to a certain extent. If you're knocking severely, you can throw all the raw fuel you want into the mix and it won't quench the detonation. When you run richer than 12:1 on gasoline, you're losing power. Between 11:1 and 12:1, the power curve is fairly flat and you're not losing very much power, much richer than about 10.5:1 and you're starting to lose power drastically, and probably not helping your detonation problem either. So the answer is to achieve around 11:1 AF ratio for your best compromise, not going richer than about 10.5:1 at most. You won't be inherently down very much on power due to the AF ratio, but you're probably delaying the onset of detonation enough so that your spark advance isn't being severely retarded, thus helping your power - end result, you get the optimum power / knock control balance. When racers speak of running on the "rich" side they're really referring to running around 10.5:1 area, whereas when they speak of running on the "lean" side, they're really referring to the 12.5:1 area, whether they know it or not. They're not actually running "lean" (which would be something greater than 14.7:1), they're just running on the "lean" side of best power. __________________ If you don't know were your going , any road will take you there

07-01-2009, 09:08 PM	#19 (permalink)
iluvhootersu SRT driver Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: parkland, wa Posts: 311	the car only has 15200mi there was a time i was running like 18 to19 b ut i changed it as soon as i pulled over __________________ -bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi

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