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#1 (permalink)
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SRT driver
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: parkland, wa
Posts: 311
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i believe im the first
To crack the block on the caliber srt-4
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-bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi
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#2 (permalink) |
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RONJEREMYJR1/2THEMANHEWAS
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how in the hell did u do that??!
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08 CSRT4 INFERNO RED 20%TINT ALL AROUND MPx NINJA BLACK STRUT BRACE MPx K&N COLD AIR INTAKE MPx SHORTY ANTENNA MPx STREET MOTOR MOUNT INCERTS MPx SINGLE EXIT EXHAUST MPx DOWNPIPE WITH CAT MPx AGP WASTEGATE BLACKED OUT TAILS 74 NOVA SS MY FATHER AND I, PROJECT CAR. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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SRT driver
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: parkland, wa
Posts: 311
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I cracked the cylinder wall pretty bad that's what the dealer said and blew a head gasket which a earlier post I mention... all I am going to say is when u put the map/tip clamp on be cateful on tunning it right... I'm pretty sure it was due to backfire
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-bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi
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#5 (permalink) |
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RONJEREMYJR1/2THEMANHEWAS
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damn! wtf that is so beat man!
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08 CSRT4 INFERNO RED 20%TINT ALL AROUND MPx NINJA BLACK STRUT BRACE MPx K&N COLD AIR INTAKE MPx SHORTY ANTENNA MPx STREET MOTOR MOUNT INCERTS MPx SINGLE EXIT EXHAUST MPx DOWNPIPE WITH CAT MPx AGP WASTEGATE BLACKED OUT TAILS 74 NOVA SS MY FATHER AND I, PROJECT CAR. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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SRT racer
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: long island
Posts: 532
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i hope you somehow have it covered under warrenty maybe they wont realize you cut into the main harness for the ecm
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staged mopar c.a.i blow off plate mpx strut bar mpx catted downpipe mpx single outlet axelback ptp 50 % short throw w.s front lip/ splitter extra fog lights for the hell of it srt insert in hood scoop hyper yellow fogs agp oil accumulator bwoody check valve |
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#7 (permalink) |
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"Trool" mod
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How many miles were on the engine? Pistons look nice and clean still!
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Stage 1..MPx catted downpipe..MPx dual out muffler..MPx FMIC..S1 injectors...AEM intake..AEM UEGO..AEM Digital boost gauge...Scangauge..AGP WG...AGP front mount..AGP Catch Can..BWoody Check Valve..Forge BOV...Custom hitch...309.5HP..14.1 @ 98 - a work in progress __________________________________ ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Team Disst
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sanger , Texas
Posts: 1,176
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from the pics i cant tell for sure (little blurry) but it looks like it was starting to melt the edge of the piston , sure looks like it leaned out , they normally run like there being raped just before they let go . Just my .02 .
if the air fuel was in fact staying around 10 i dont beleive it would have happened at some point it leaned out here's a little read on AFR What is the optimum air-fuel ratio to run for best power? I've heard racers say that we need to run a bit lean for best power - is this true? Maybe. It's somewhat true that running a tad bit richer will help quench detonation (knock), but only to a certain extent. The stochiometric AF ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1. Stochiometric means that at this point, the fuel is completely burned with no unburned hydrocarbons left, giving you best emissions. This is the AF ratio the PCM is shooting for under idle and cruise. However, best power is achieved for gasoline at around 12.5:1, leaving excess unburned hydrocarbons, but no unused oxygen molecules! (This is why 12.5:1 is typically the best power point.) So under ideal circumstances, the best power AF ratio to shoot for is around 12:1 to 12.5:1. However, running a tad bit richer will throw excess fuel (gasoline) into the combustion chamber, and the extra unburnt fuel actually acts as a heat sink, absorbing heat and cooling the combustion temperature, hence reducing the tendency for detonation to develop. However, this only helps to a certain extent. If you're knocking severely, you can throw all the raw fuel you want into the mix and it won't quench the detonation. When you run richer than 12:1 on gasoline, you're losing power. Between 11:1 and 12:1, the power curve is fairly flat and you're not losing very much power, much richer than about 10.5:1 and you're starting to lose power drastically, and probably not helping your detonation problem either. So the answer is to achieve around 11:1 AF ratio for your best compromise, not going richer than about 10.5:1 at most. You won't be inherently down very much on power due to the AF ratio, but you're probably delaying the onset of detonation enough so that your spark advance isn't being severely retarded, thus helping your power - end result, you get the optimum power / knock control balance. When racers speak of running on the "rich" side they're really referring to running around 10.5:1 area, whereas when they speak of running on the "lean" side, they're really referring to the 12.5:1 area, whether they know it or not. They're not actually running "lean" (which would be something greater than 14.7:1), they're just running on the "lean" side of best power.
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If you don't know were your going , any road will take you there |
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#10 (permalink) |
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SRT driver
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: parkland, wa
Posts: 311
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it might as well have been the block they still replace the block
__________________
-bwoody upper pressure pipe w/psi turbo xs bov -3 inch custum fab ram intake -perrin manual boost controller -exaust depot 3'' exhaust with rez -ptp custom magnaflow cat -mpx triple pillar -ptp 16psi wga -590cc injectors -innovate lc-1 wideband -ngk iridium 1 step colder gaped .032 -xd-16 a/f ratio gauge -ptp map/tip -autosport boost gauge -flat black hood 18 psi
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