smarceau

Plan B & Grease Monkey,

Thank you for replying back to my post. U boy's sure had me confuse their for a while with compression ratio ect ect.....

I don't have much experience with turbo's on cars yet but I don't have lots of experience (10 years) with 2 stroke snowmobile engines. I know for a fact, the leaner you make it, the more POWER you make. Yes, their is that fine line you can't cross but if you can get close to that fine line without melting the piston you can make a lot more power. By leanning out the fuel management on a snowmobile, your not only making more power but your also saving on fuel consumption and less BLACK SMOKE coming out of the exhaust. Also, a good way to check for a clean burn on a snowmobile is looking at the "burnt line" on a spark plug. If you know how to read a spark plug from a "clean lean burn" to a "rich fat burn" you will know for sure what's the next step to do.

Plan B,

The only thing that I did to the car so far is added the Blow Off Plate from ModernPerformance. I can't see how that could change the performance of the car. I mean, I would think it would help it because your dumping that HOT air into the atmosphere RIGHT? Asside from that, I did nothing else to it. I plan on putting the K/N Air filter from ModernPerformance on the car soon, but I want to make sure I don't do any damage to the turbo what-so-ever. I also do not want to void the warranty either.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you richen the fuel management system on a car that has O2 sensors, the O2 will tell the ECU to lean it out, but if the ECU has it's own parameters, then that means it can only lean it so much.... RIGHT?

One thing I also want to mention to both of you is that on certain day's on my commute to and from work the boost pressure varies depending on coolant temps. When the engine is around the 140 - 160' it wil only make 5psi according to the boost gauge. When coolant temp reaches 180 - 190' then it fluctuate between 10 - 15 psi. At times it will go to 15psi but then drops to 10psi and stays right there ti'll I let off the throttle. Is that right??

Thanks again guy's, I really appreciate all your help and looking forward to some of your feedback.

Regards,
s.marceau

Plan B

Have you boost leak tested it since you added the BOV? Some are known to leak, reason being that when they anodize/powder coat/wahetever they do to it to make it blue, it often creates an un even surface. When we install them we usually sand down both sides so that metal shows. Gasket sealant isn't a bad idea either. And unfortunately the BOV does nothing for power, it just sounds cool

As for boost levels, I am not incredibly familiar with the standard boost levels on the CSRT4 (I have an NSRT4), but spiking to 15 and holding at 10 seems quite low. You may have a boost leak (pratically all the NSRT4's had a boost leak from the factory). A good thinkg to do would be to go through and tighten all the hose clamps around all the turbo plumbing. Zip tie all the vacuum lines where they meet the rubber boots as well.

And you should definately get the K&N drop in filter. it will not void your warranty and breaths pretty damn good!

As for richening the fuel system and the O2, I visualize your statement as a circle, lol. If you 'program' the ecu to run richer, the up stream O2 sensor will just be a measuring device to ensure that the fuel is as it should be. However, the SRT Techs put quite a lot of effort into developing/programming the PCMs, so I highly doubt they would reflash it to change any type of the fuel controlling aspects after the initial release (at least for stock applications).

It's also a good idea to stay out of boost until your car is at optimal running temps. it appears that the CSRT4 has a safeguard from your statements. That should be normal.

I would boost leak check it and go from there. Once it has been determined that there are no vacuum / boost leaks, we can try other things....

GreaseMonkey

His boost levels are fine. The CSRT-4 has torque limiting through 3rd gear, in which boost pressures are reduced. Max boost is only around 12 psi 4th gear and up.

What he should do is just take it to the dealership. That's what warranties are for.

When I put the BOV on (which I quickly removed 4 days later because it's dumb and annoying), I just used the gasket and put a few dabs of RTV around the holes.

__________________
'08 Caliber SRT-4
Labor Rates per hour:
$50 if you can accurately describe the issue
$100 if you attempted diagnosis
$200 if you tried fixing it yourself
$500 for you to sit, watch, and learn

Plan B

12 psi max!?!?!?! Dang, didn't know they were so low. bigger turbo than the NSRT4s though, so i guess that is where the additional power comes from...

Good point, should warranty it. I haven't had a warrenty for so long I always forget about that option!

GreaseMonkey

It's right around there as far as boost. Mine will hold a little higher than that sometimes. The extra power comes from the variable valve timing and probably a different flow profile on the heads.

Good old warranties...that's why I'm not going to mess with this car a lot until that is up.

__________________
'08 Caliber SRT-4
Labor Rates per hour:
$50 if you can accurately describe the issue
$100 if you attempted diagnosis
$200 if you tried fixing it yourself
$500 for you to sit, watch, and learn

VBSRT

Somebody has been doing their homework and it shows. It is nice to hear good gouge on forums and not some kids getting pissed when they are wrong and don't want to admit it. Thanks for the re=education and refresh on the subject. I know that i am not the only one that benefitted from that. Thanks.

R/
VBSRT

__________________

08 SRT4 Caliber-mods on the way!
06 SRT8 300C-CAI,Exhaust, Tuner

R.I.P CALIBER :(

hey whats up... well I own a 08 csrt-4 BLACK in color I love the car to death but yea I went through the misfire thing too it happened twice first it was cylinder 1 they cleaned the injector and popped it back in but switched it with cylinder 3 injector so cylinder 3 injector was in cylinder 1's place. second time i got the misfired the cylinder 1 injector which was now in cylinder 3 cracked!!!! MAN i was pissed their trying to tell me its all bad fuel and crap but i dont really know it can be true and false but whatever mopar just got me some stage 2 injectors which i waited 2 weeks for but i noticed my car had a lil bit more power and still does. With the stage 2injectors they could of been from the NSRT-4 performance grouped parts or they actually have a performance part lineup already for the CSRT-4 so id check it out at your local dealership. WEll back tto the problem i also did have my check engine light on. but yea tell them to get you new injectors if the problem repeats call the dodge customer service up in detroit and they'll tell you what you can do from their. when i called they said if it happens a third time i can qualify to get a brand new CALIBER SRT-4 and they'll take this one of my hands it sounds like a great deal.

Plan B

Lemon-Law FTW!

wyvern

not here in Canada

we do not have a lemon law only available in the U.S. we get the booklets but they say only available in the States....

also no lifetime powertrain warranty either, the Canadian dealerships and Chrysler Canada customers in Canada

ONLY IN CANADA.....EHHHHHH.....LOL

__________________
2008 SRT4 CALIBER
1989 SHELBY DAYTONA 425WHP 2.5 SOHC 11.93@118mph

EVLPMKN

I also had an issue with the computer a month ago. No misfire though. I was getting on it a little and suddenly the CEL came on and the car went into limp mode. The service center told me that the computer had crashed which put the car into limp mode and they reinstalled the software. I have not noticed any performance difference. Hopefully this is not a problem the CSRT4 is going to have.

__________________
2008 Caliber SRT4
1998 Ford Mustang
1965 Chevy C10 (EVLPMKN)
1963 Ford Falcoln Convertable