Michael SRT Frye

Ok so today I got a boost leak tester from MPx
I've never done this before and even after looking around on the internet for hours I'm still not sure
What are some steps to take in the whole boost leak process
I'm gonna actually have my car on a lift for easy access
I was told to take the Cai off and put the tester directly to the turbo. Correct?
For Mods I just have a cold air intake, greddy Bov with the upper hard pipe, forge block.off plate, also stock wga n stock pcm
Should I remove the engine.cover front bumper cover or heat shield before doing the test? What would be some hiddn leaks or maybe common ones
And should i run 20psi through the system? Thanks

mouser

You should target about one or 2psi more than your target PSI. Lets say you run your car at 17PSI, leak test it to 19 and you'll be golden.

You'll have to plug natural bleed line if it's not plugged, and the surge valve.

Not quite sure how to proceed with external BOV. May depend on type. Anyone?

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Michael SRT Frye

Where's the bleed like located? Like where does it start?

Michael SRT Frye

I'm thinking.of getting a different Bov I'm worried this may be a fake no matter how much I mess with it It's just pressure surge

bobbyfinster

when i do my BLT, i run my scangauge to under the hood, so i can monitor the boost building, the key needs to be in the forward position. or just get a friend to watch your stocker inside the car while you charge the system.
My question is this: once the system is charged, how long shall it hold?

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MS1KMPx BOP, Needswings intake tube, K&N filter, CP-E catless downpipe, Bwoody check valve, AGP catch can, Aero Force Scan Gauge, MPx strut bar

mouser

Well I suppose there is no point of holding it longer than your typical wot pass. But a couple of minutes makes sure you have time to hear and locate any hiss. As faint as they may be.

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Michael SRT Frye

I don't understand the whole WOT thing people.talk about

Michael SRT Frye

Oh and I wanna replace plugs. Are the ones from factory good? My car has the factory plugs. I don't need colder cause I have the stock pcm. Eh

srt4cali

How many miles are on ur car?

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Mods: MS1K,AGP FMIC,NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS(.028),MPX STREET MM INSERTS,MPX CATLESS DP, MPX SINGLE EXIT,MPX SHAWTY ANTENNA,MPX GAUGE POD,MPX BOP,JMB PC'D UPPIPES,JMB 4in SRI,JMB SUBFRAME BRACE,MOPAR REAR SWAY BAR,MOPAR STRUT BAR,RT ADJ CAMBER ARMS,AEROFORCE SCANGAUGE ,BWOODY CV,TORQUE SOLUTIONS EXHAUST MOUNTS,FRONT ES SWAY BAR BUSHINGS,RM DRAG SPRINGS,SRT GRILL BADGE,CUSTOM COLOR MATCHED HEADLIGHTS,3M CF WRAPPED BEZEL, BLUE FOG OVERLAYS,PUTCO BULBS

oemCSRT

WOT= wide open throttle.. This is when the engine and turbo would be under full load with max boost being pushed through the system. (it's when the pedal is to the metal )

You could stick with the stock plugs and be fine, maybe switch them up to something a little better like Bosch or NGK iridiums if you want. But stay in the stock heat range. I don't even remember what the stock plug brand is...

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2009 Brilliant Black- 5241/5674 Born on 11/7/08

Show- Shorty antenna, 5% tint, custom powdercoated black SRT wheels, depo headlights, black tails, glovebox SRT-4 badge, front grille badge, Pioneer nav unit, MPX dual gauge pod w/ scanguage and AEM wideband, rear wiper delete

Go- MS1, CP-E catless DP, muffler delete w/ 4.5" tip, AGP intake, AGP WGA, AGP up-pipe w/HKS BOV and Mopar BOP, BWoody CV, NGK Plugs, JMB Small Battery Kit, NS1 injectors, Red RT GW kit, solenoid delete