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Old 03-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cool Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

These are not my pix. Got em from the red site from a thread that Silverback made over there. To my knowledge, I dont think his thread was ever brought here. Just one or two sporadic links of it here and there.

I thought it would be good to have this info over here to maybe inspire/help anyone who has run into the "failure of the grossly under engineered cheesey rear crossmember".

Be good if Mods could sticky this. My reason for doing this is just to make it easy to find if needed.

Im only slapping up a basic short version with mostly just pix. The pix pretty much tell the tale and theres realy not a whole lot to know about the repair that Silverback made.

Any questions you may have? Just fire away! I can pretty much answer whatever you may have.

Silverback had the right solution and did a great job. So thanx and kudows to him for comming up with this.

Last he reported, his repair is holding well and the car has less sway then even before the failure. Nice and solid. For a mere few bucks Dodge coulda/shoulda made the piece this way from the factory. One look at the oem crossmember and the first thought that comes to mind is "What cheapskate Imbecile designed this part and what Bufoons approved that design!"

Silverback said it took him roughly a half hour to remove the rear crossmember out of the car. Not too difficult.



Pix of failed cracked oem subframe. Here you can see how, when going around turns or hitting very uneven chasis twisting surfaces, the ant-sway bar is loaded and with time fatigues the metal. Throw some rust into the deal to compound the issue.

All the cracks were cleaned up and welded back together before the bolstering began.







In this pix is the completed repair. 10 guage plate/sheet steel (easily bought online by the foot) has been welded to the flimsy surface of the oem piece to strengthen the whole area where the sway bar clamp pulls on it. You can also see where he closed off that small triangular area on top. Two holes in the new plates were drilled to give access to the original holes so the sway bar clamshells/bushings can bolt back up to their original spots.
All perimiters of the new 10 guage steel are welded. New steel is on face area and top triangular area.

You can use thin cardboard or construction paper to first create templates for the repair area. Then traced onto your new steel for cutting the shape. This also will insure a nice tight fit around that top pipe for welding.




Here is a pix of the degreased and sanded piece. With all welding repairs of 10 guage steel completed. Silverback is useing a fantastic product bought online called POR15 which solves any future rust issues.
In this pix he has sprayed down the raw piece with a self etching zinc phosphate prep coating that insures a good bond for the por15 top coat. The zinc phosphate prep is also sold on the POR15 site.



Waiting to dry. You can see the 2 new steel pieces that were added. Front and top triangle.



Here is the crossmember all painted up with the POR15. 2 coats are required.



Here is the anti sway bar bolted back up with clamshells for a test fit.



Heres the whole shebang installed back in the car.



Can see how nice, thick and strong the new plate is.



Its sad that we even have to make threads and repairs like this. Overall, I love the csrt. But on this crossmember piece........Dodge didnt even try.

Hope this helps someone. I know it helped me. I have a new crossmember sitting at home with the 10 guage steel and por15 all ready to go.

Mine hasnt failed yet but its cracking. I do have the JMB brace in for over a year and it does slow the process down. But over the past year the damage has grown.

I advocate having the JMB brace even if your crossmember/subframe isnt cracking as its a great lightweight performance piece that greatly stiffens up that whole tail end area. And when you think about it, its a cheap item to buy.
A must have and worth it when you think of the tremedous twisting forces applied to that sway bar. Even in stock form.
Stiffer lowering springs/coilovers also do help in reduceing compression and lean to alleviate and lessen the stress that would be put on the sway bar normaly. So those are a big plus to have also.
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*SYNAPSE DIVERTER VALVE *CUSTOM INTAKE PIPE *HUGE SPECTRE FILTER *MOPAR SWAY BARS F&R *SCAN GUAGE *JMB SUBF BRACE *JMB FUEL RAIL
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

Wow! Almost sounds like Im a RT sales guy. Might have to start hittin Ron Whoosh up for some commissions.
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2008 SUNBEAST ORANGE CSRT
*MS2K (Full Donkey) *NGK PLUGS *MPX DP (cat'd) *AGP WG/ACT *TURBOSMART M/BOOST CNTRLR *BWOODY TRAC BARS *CATCH CAN *CHECK VALVE *AGP FMIC *HAWK HPS PADS *AGP UP-PIPE
*SYNAPSE DIVERTER VALVE *CUSTOM INTAKE PIPE *HUGE SPECTRE FILTER *MOPAR SWAY BARS F&R *SCAN GUAGE *JMB SUBF BRACE *JMB FUEL RAIL
*CXRACING COILOVERS(Fortune Auto radial bearing spring mounts) *RT CAMBER ARMS
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

Nice. Any pics of where the subframe brace goes for support.

RT commission for SFB can come here for this one ROFL
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

Woow good write up....
Thank you for the valid info and sharing with us on the blue site.

I must say, I'm ONE LUCKY DUDE so far with my car. I have close to 130K miles on the car and my crossmember don't show any signs of stress, just some surface rust is all really.
Heck, I'm still running the factory battery, alternator, water pump and power steering pump.
I did try and buy Zaden JMB subframe last week to prevent this from happening but I missed out on the deal. I'll truly get in contact with RT about getting one soon after seeing these pics....

Thanks again for sharing.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

Hopefully the aftermarket (RT) will come out with a nice tubular version that is build to last. Wonder how much it would cost to make one. I would think the material cost would be minimal and the OEM could be used as a guide.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelValentine View Post
Hopefully the aftermarket (RT) will come out with a nice tubular version that is build to last. Wonder how much it would cost to make one. I would think the material cost would be minimal and the OEM could be used as a guide.
I agree, Would be a nice item. A bolt in affair/done deal.
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I'D RATHER HAVE A "BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME" THAN A "FRONTAL LOBOTOMY"

2008 SUNBEAST ORANGE CSRT
*MS2K (Full Donkey) *NGK PLUGS *MPX DP (cat'd) *AGP WG/ACT *TURBOSMART M/BOOST CNTRLR *BWOODY TRAC BARS *CATCH CAN *CHECK VALVE *AGP FMIC *HAWK HPS PADS *AGP UP-PIPE
*SYNAPSE DIVERTER VALVE *CUSTOM INTAKE PIPE *HUGE SPECTRE FILTER *MOPAR SWAY BARS F&R *SCAN GUAGE *JMB SUBF BRACE *JMB FUEL RAIL
*CXRACING COILOVERS(Fortune Auto radial bearing spring mounts) *RT CAMBER ARMS
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

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Originally Posted by SUNBEAST ORANGE View Post
Wow! Almost sounds like Im a RT sales guy. Might have to start hittin Ron Whoosh up for some commissions.
Shit, I've been promoting their products and I don't even got the car anymore. I just hate seeing people fail on something that can be fixed with a simple part they'll blow 10x's over to get stickers and stupid shit.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

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Originally Posted by SRTdoodzer View Post
Nice. Any pics of where the subframe brace goes for support.

RT commission for SFB can come here for this one ROFL
At the top of this forum suspension section is another sticky on rear crossmember.
More details on what sh#%t happens.
Check out Type Nasty post #11
Shows a great pix of sub "brace" and how it slips up behind the sway bar. Hes got it painted red. Nice upward shot.

http://www.calibersrt4.net/dodge-cal...-sway-bar.html
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I'D RATHER HAVE A "BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME" THAN A "FRONTAL LOBOTOMY"

2008 SUNBEAST ORANGE CSRT
*MS2K (Full Donkey) *NGK PLUGS *MPX DP (cat'd) *AGP WG/ACT *TURBOSMART M/BOOST CNTRLR *BWOODY TRAC BARS *CATCH CAN *CHECK VALVE *AGP FMIC *HAWK HPS PADS *AGP UP-PIPE
*SYNAPSE DIVERTER VALVE *CUSTOM INTAKE PIPE *HUGE SPECTRE FILTER *MOPAR SWAY BARS F&R *SCAN GUAGE *JMB SUBF BRACE *JMB FUEL RAIL
*CXRACING COILOVERS(Fortune Auto radial bearing spring mounts) *RT CAMBER ARMS
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

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Originally Posted by 2.4SRT View Post
Woow good write up....
Thank you for the valid info and sharing with us on the blue site.

I must say, I'm ONE LUCKY DUDE so far with my car. I have close to 130K miles on the car and my crossmember don't show any signs of stress, just some surface rust is all really.
Heck, I'm still running the factory battery, alternator, water pump and power steering pump.
I did try and buy Zaden JMB subframe last week to prevent this from happening but I missed out on the deal. I'll truly get in contact with RT about getting one soon after seeing these pics....

Thanks again for sharing.
Thats pretty amazing for your mileage. Your doin great. I only have half that. 65,000 miles
So far so good. Only have two real big complaints. This one with the rear crossmember and my sh#%t 2008 driver seat looks like Freddy Kruger slashed it.
Im the gentlest person getting in and out. And my seat looks like "who did it and ran".
Havnt figured out what to do. All options are so expensive for seat repairs.
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I'D RATHER HAVE A "BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME" THAN A "FRONTAL LOBOTOMY"

2008 SUNBEAST ORANGE CSRT
*MS2K (Full Donkey) *NGK PLUGS *MPX DP (cat'd) *AGP WG/ACT *TURBOSMART M/BOOST CNTRLR *BWOODY TRAC BARS *CATCH CAN *CHECK VALVE *AGP FMIC *HAWK HPS PADS *AGP UP-PIPE
*SYNAPSE DIVERTER VALVE *CUSTOM INTAKE PIPE *HUGE SPECTRE FILTER *MOPAR SWAY BARS F&R *SCAN GUAGE *JMB SUBF BRACE *JMB FUEL RAIL
*CXRACING COILOVERS(Fortune Auto radial bearing spring mounts) *RT CAMBER ARMS
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Cracked Rear crossmember/subframe repair info

Wondering, does it seem the subframe fatigues in/on the same side/place/area ??

Sweet write-up !!
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